Thursday, February 17, 2011

Opatija and the Lungomare

Restaurant Ribarnica, Volosko

Lungomare

Lungomare
Our first weekend here, we took advantage of the 60+ degree weather and took a busride to the famous Hapsburg-era resort village of Opatija.  We can actually see Opatija from our balcony.  Starting in a fishing village called Lovran, extending through Opatija, and continuing to another fishing village called Volosko is a 12km promenade called the Lungomare.  We started in Opatija and walked to Volosko, enjoying the sunset and the terrific views.  There were two small swimming beaches along the way, because in the 19th century, there had to be separate beaches for the girls and the boys.  To me, the lifeguard stand also looks 19th century.  When we arrived in Volosko, it was dark, but we walked right uphill through tiny stone alleyways to the restaurant recommended by a very nice tourist office employee in Opatija.   We picked out sardines (srdela) from a huge spread of fresh fish in a tiny opening on the main floor (street level).  The cook asked if we wanted it fried or grilled.  And we ordered blitva, which is close to the Croatian National Sidedish, consisting of garlic, boiled swiss chard, and little bits of potato, all mixed up.   None of us are accustomed to picking fish bones out of our seafood, but it was fun, and quite tasty.  Fortunately, the heads were removed for us.